Along a winding road through mostly rugged terrain with plenty of switchbacks, breathtaking views, canyons, pine forests and a few small mountain towns, the mini bus takes us from Oaxaca City to the coast. It seats twelve random strangers, thrown together for an 8 hour trip on a road not recommended for people prone to motion sickness. Mexico 175 (Pochutla Road) is long, curvy, scenic and considered dangerous. However, I’ve been told of remote long beaches, rolling waves, sea turtles and scorching hot sun at the Oaxacan Coast; supposedly well worth the drive through the vast mountain range that separates the desert around the city from the sea.
They had me at remote.
San Agustinillo, sunrise
So we’re crossing the Sierra Madre del Sur in endless curves, ascending to 2.770 meters above sea level with epic mountainscape views, descending again in sharp turns, slowing down and stopping to let oncoming cars pass safely - as the road gets too narrow for two vehicles. We stop for a little while longer at a place at the edge of a canyon in the middle of nowhere. We stretch our legs, take in the view while having a coffee and a bite, watching the ladies at work in their open kitchen and are, quite frankly, amazed by it all. We make sure to use the loo, again, before climbing back into the bus, heading further down the mountains. If I had driven by myself, I’d have stopped and stayed at San Jose Del Pacifico for a day or two, to fully take in the serenity of the mountain range, be one with its nature for a while - maybe next time. We see the oak and pine landscape transition to tropical rain forest instead and 263 km from the city, we reach a stunning coastline. Passing through a string of beach towns, we’re getting off the bus one by one at different stops.
My stop is San Agustinillo, a small fishing village, where I’ll be staying at a place that just recently opened its doors; after having been built into the jungle above the beach. I’m supposed to message Alan after my arrival and to wait for him at the bus stop. I do both.
The air is completely changed. It is warm, smelling of ocean breeze and flowers I don’t yet know. People walk past, few and entirely un-rushed. I’m counting vochos between scooters and collectivos crowded with locals for a little while until Alan walks towards me. There’s no question that he is the person I’m waiting for and that I’m the new arrival he’s come to welcome. He greats me like an old friend, I feel at home before I even see what he’s built here.
He walks me uphill, chatting casually, while carrying my oversized luggage up a steep flight of stairs through the jungle. I can’t keep up. He waits for me at the top and catching our breaths we’re taking in the stunning view across the treetops to the ocean before reaching the front desk. The Lounge turns out to be entirely open air, shaded by a lovely tree, furnished with hammocks and comfy chairs around a coffee table. It has ocean as well as jungle views, a drinks trolley, no actual desk, but a sign and an electronic bell attached to the tree trunk. I never had to make use of the bell, as the people taking care of this place and its guests are way too attentive to make bell ringing a necessity. We sit, rest, chat, hydrate and I admire the building from the outside while hearing a little more about the story behind it. I’m being reassured, that not a single tree on site got harmed in the building process and the aim of the project has been environmentally friendly to the extreme from the outset. In fact we’re sitting next to a part of the 100% reuse system for all water consumed on site. Without getting into too many details at this instance, he gives me a tour of the building; ending in my room, leaving me to settle down, acclimatise and grab a shower after the long drive.
Alan said I couldn’t miss the path to the beach, and a little rested, refreshed and going downhill this time it took less than 3 minutes to get onto the sand and walk into the gentle waves. It was dusk by now, the heat had turned into a very pleasant temperature to explore and decide on which dinner recommendation to follow. I didn’t want to leave the beach and I didn’t have to yet. Dinner was served at El Pelícano without my feet ever having to leave the sandy ground or lose eye contact with the ocean. Just what I came here for.
I sleep with the shutters open, there is no glass in Monte Uzulu’s windows, a breeze is coming in from the ocean and going out into the forest on the other side. I can hear the waves rolling in, lulling me to sleep, music to my ears.
My alarm goes off early to catch the sunrise on the beach. It’s just light enough to follow the path and to find that I’m not the first human walking due east along the surf. The quiet pilgrimage towards the cliffs and rising sun happens here every morning, becomes routine, a ritual that locals and guests alike follow in awe of nature’s beauty. Not that the beach is crowded - far from it. A few runners make use of the cool hours of dawn, the fishermen have gone out to sea already, a small group has started yoga below the cliffs at the end of the beach; which I’m noticing as I get close enough to distinguish between rocks and people. Dogs accompany their humans towards the sunrise, who smile and nod greetings while walking past each other, everyone at their own pace. The light gets more and more magical, blue hour, soft tones, pastel waves and sea birds; swooping down, catching fish. I’ve never known a more perfect way to wake up. In harmony with all around me, breathing deeply, taking in the rhythm of the waves, eyes on the horizon, feet on the sand, where it’s soaked with salty water and consistently supports my steps.
Arriving at the cliffs of the long bay I touch, as on any beach, the rocks to complete the walk, noticing a small amount of shells and other beach treasure sitting on nooks and crannies at eye level. There seem to be likeminded people walking these shores. Turning around, the rose golden light has become warmer and after leaving the shadow of the cliffs the morning sun unleashes its force on my back, warming my skin while I trace my steps. The early risers here are still entranced in their meditations, gazing into the gentle light above the horizon, watching the pelicans dive and soar, smiling to themselves and any passersby.
The fishermen return with fresh fish and seafood. The dogs have already found comfy spots to lie down in the shade of the palapas. A few chairs and parasols appear on the beach in front of cafes and cabanas, and San Agustinillo comes to life in the early sunlight.
The village is small and growing from the beach uphill into the jungle while blending into its natural surroundings. There are no new big buildings standing out, but all houses follow the height limitations and are covered by palm thatched roofs, giving San Agustinillo the charm of the small authentic coastal place that it still is. It has its cafes, eateries, bars and shops along the beach and grows quieter, more residential up the hill, hidden from sight, in the forest. I climb back up to Monte Uzulu for a shower and some breakfast served on my private terrace - shaded, with ocean views across the treetops. Seasonal fruit with yoghurt and granola, good local coffee (grown and roasted just up the road) and pastry from the local bakery. All foods at Monte Uzulu are organic and come from small producers in Oaxaca. I savour every bite while gazing across the forest to the ocean now and then and reading about local culture from the Zapotec people to today’s craftsmen of the area.
The wifi connection is strong, the shade perfect, I get a good amount of work done on my terrace and I might just never leave this place.
However, Alan does convince me to go on a sunset walk to Punta Cometa in the evening. It’s an incredible spot to watch the sun set or rise and less than an hour walk from the boutique hotel. We stroll at leisurely pace along the road to Mazunte, a few blocks through the colourful main road and then uphill on dirt roads until we find the path to the cape. Punta Cometa is jutting out from between Mazunte beach and Playa Mermejita to form the southernmost point in the state of Oaxaca. The path takes us through the trees of the community nature reserve, across a grassy headland to the Punta, surrounded by crashing waves low down. The panoramic view is stunning. San Agustinillo blends in perfectly against its backdrop somewhere half way between here and the end of its beach where the sun rises from the ocean in the morning if you make it to the Punta in time. The view from the rocky cape stretches all along the seemingly endless beach to the west as well, where the waves paint undulating patterns into the sand, ever changing, alive and mesmerizing. Just below Punta Cometa is a small beach and we’ve come to see the sun dip into the ocean from there, sitting on the warm sand, in conversation and awe. The colours are surreal and the twilight as blissful as in the morning.
We take our conversation to El Navegante for dinner. I learn more about local food, local artisans and the ways in which the team behind Monte Uzulu has been and is collaborating with the local community. It’s inspiring - and delicious.
The coastal geography creates different types of wave breaks along the shore, forms places for a calm swim and play areas for surfers in long bays with big waves rolling in. Just choose the right cove for your mood of the day and go there, by foot or collectivo. Throughout my stay at Monte Uzulu, Playa Aragon has become my happy place for a sunrise ritual. From there I’d walk down to Playa Agustinillo with the sunshine on my back to where the waves meet the large rock formations; used by seabirds as resting places between diving, feeding and gliding just above the water. The fishermen have pulled their boats on the beach in-between the rocks, taking care of their catch. It is getting warm enough to be seeking shade by then and I’ve made it a habit to be among the first patrons of the day on La Moras palm thatched terrace above the beach, having a coffee, watching the beach wake up until it’s time to give my seat to others as the place is slowly filling up. Back to my beautiful room to grab a shower, have breakfast served on the terrace, sip the second cup of good coffee of the day.
I enjoy the simple luxury of natural materials, functional shapes, subtle colours and textures in the breezy shade around me. While the scorching hot sun is high up in the sky, the hotel is a refuge. A place of shade and serenity, pink earthen walls on the outside, with moveable facade elements for natural ventilation made from local wood, and palm thatched roofs surrounded by a beautiful jungle like garden. The complex is raised and open enough to catch the ocean breeze, a perfect hideout to read, write, think until the sunlight becomes mild again and it’s time to explore.
My late afternoon walk takes me past the National Mexican Turtle Center through the lively Mazunte Pueblo Mágico with its hippy vibes, artisan stores, vegetarian restaurants, yoga studios and tight community atmosphere. I stop at Cometa Café for an espresso. Menu, music and open corner space offer all you could hope for from a coffee shop. It also marks the spot to take a right to Playa Mermejita. Just a short walk away; on unpaved roads through the woods, this beach is vast, mostly empty, has mesmerizing waves... with a dangerous riptide and a glorious sunset into the ocean; framed by the rocks, cliffs and spray at its end. I could sit here and observe the ever changing waves, patterns, colours and skies for hours without realizing time going by. Each sunset here has been epic. Each walk back while the sky grew darker, ended with star gazing from the bed while falling asleep to the sound of the waves.
Mermejita, sunset
My new favourite hotel’s name derives from the word gusulú, which means ‘the start’ or ‘beginning’ in the language of the region’s indigenous people.
Zapotec people were born in the clouds in the form of birds and dispersed after hearing music. Their creator gods became moons, stars and sun. We were all equal, the perfect balance between human beings and nature, connected with our origin, with the beginning of everything.
Monte Uzulu sunset
Monte Uzulu was born from the love its design team has for the Oaxacan coast. The jungle around the place is thousands of years old, every tree has been respected during construction and allowed continued growth. The building and its interiors are in balance with nature, not only by using the natural resources of San Agustinillo. All wood is local, the finishes of the walls are made of earth and lime, applied by hand, the regulations of height and maximum square meters of construction free green areas within the village have been followed, a 100% reuse system of all water consumed on the grounds has been developed and put in place, even rainwater is collected on site; to take advantage of the benefits of rain, while biodegradable soaps that are friendly to human skin and the earth are provided in all rooms. Monte Uzulu has been inserted into the water cycle, letting it flow without interfering.
I can only confirm that coming to the state of Oaxaca is like falling in love and visiting Monte Uzulu had me wanting to stay indefinitely at its coast.
THE LOWDOWN
What started as a spontaneous two day stay at a new coawww.admagazine.comstal hotel became the beginning of a deep friendship with Alan V. Favero and pure admiration for his work with Taller Lu'um and other collaborations.
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